Do you want to camp close to Transfăgărășan, called “the best road in the world” by Top Gear? Do you want to wake up to the scenery provided by the road crossing the heart of the Făgăraș mountains, the biggest mountain region of Transylvania? Do you want to put your tent in a place from where the three highest peaks of Romania are accessible in a day? Read on to find out about your options.
If you prefer, you can read this article in Romanian or Hungarian using the language selector on the right or you can watch a short summary in video format below.
1. In Bâlea valley, right above the treeline
We tested out this spot recently in the middle of September. There were no sheep anymore in the nearby sheepfold. It was very convenient as we could put down the tents very close to our cars, but this is also the disadvantage of this spot because all kinds of people can reach it, leaving a lot of trash. Personally, I find this unacceptable, especially as there is a big trash can just a few meters away! Get an education, people!
Also, at just around 1570 m (5150 feet) of altitude and the forest being so close, we got visitors at night: foxes, who were not afraid of humans and were very insistent. I had to use the mightiness of all my 90 kg (200 lbs) to scare them away, but they kept returning. In the end, we went to sleep and had no unpleasant surprises during the night, but it wasn’t my calmest rest. I have a suspicion, that some “specimens” find it a good idea to feed the foxes.
How to get there?
If you come by car from the north, the trailhead to Bâlea waterfall is in a big left turn, which you cannot miss, as there are dozens of merchants there. After that follows another huge U-turn to the right, and before the road starts to climb abruptly there is a sheepfold. About 20 m (65 feet) before the dirt road that goes to the sheepfold to the right, there is a parking place for your car (but be careful, if you have low ground clearance and sporty suspensions as I do).
Pros
- Easily accessible, parking spots in abundance
- Lower altitude, so not as exposed as other options
- River nearby
Cons
- A lot of trash
- Foxes
- Close to the road, lots of cars passing by
- People stop here frequently to take photos and go to the river, some of them making noise
2. On the shore of Bâlea lake
Your first option next to Bâlea lake is on its north-eastern part, right next to the trail leading towards Capra lake. I’ve personally never camped there, and I imagine it gets crowded during the day from the visitors of the Bâlea Lac hut and restaurant.
Pros
- Close to the trailhead, the main ridge of Făgăraș mountains 1 hour away
- Lake, hut and restaurant nearby
- Well protected by the mountainside from the east
Cons
- Probably crowded during the day
3. On the western side of Bâlea lake, near the parking with the barrier
Your other option if you want to camp close to Bâlea lake is on the western shore, right next to the parking with the barrier (as of September 2018, 40 RON per day, 5 RON if you only stay an hour) and the hut of the mountain rescue personnel (Salvamont). I camped in this area only once, before the 2×2 skyrace, so don’t be afraid, it’s usually not as crowded as in the picture where you can see the tents and cars of all the participants. A big bonus, that just a few steps to the north and you can see one of the best possible views of the Transfăgărășan road in my opinion.
Pros
- Parking nearby
- Good starting point if you leave in the direction of Negoiu peak, the second highest in Romania
- Mountain rescue nearby
- Best view of Transfăgărășan just a few steps away
Cons
- Noise and music during the day coming from the merchants next to the road
4. In the Păltinului saddle (șaua Păltinului)
I never camped here, but it’s an option. There is plenty of space, but kinda exposed and above 2300m, so you better have a good tent and sleeping bag.
How to get there?
From spot number 3 take red cross marking, then the blue line to the south. You will have to climb around 300m (1000 feet) of positive altitude difference. Where the blue line meets the main ridge marking, the red line, you will find the spot.
Pros
- Lot of space to put down your tent
- Good starting point if you leave in the direction of Negoiu peak, the second highest in Romania
- Amazing view in good weather conditions
Cons
- Water about 15-20 minutes away (see spot 5)
- Exposed, can be foggy and very windy, at least a middle tier tent with aluminium poles recommended
- You have to carry your tent from the car, about 1-2 hours
5. At Păltinu spring
We also tested this one out recently, on the same mid-September trip as spot number one. And to be honest, I loved it! Who doesn’t want to wake up to a view like this? Well, I guess not everybody is as crazy as I am, camping on the ridge in a thunderstorm… For me, it was like a lullaby 🙂
How to get there?
From spot number 4 just follow the red line marking to the south. The spring is not easily noticeable, water usually flows from the rocks on your right.
Pros
- Water spring and small river nearby
- Excellent starting point to climb Negoiu peak, the second highest in Romania
- Amazing views
Cons
- Very exposed
- You have to carry your tent from the car, about 2 hours
6. Capra lake
My last suggestion is the one I have used the most, on the shore of Capra lake. From spot number 2 you can be there in an hour following the blue triangle marking (and some others). You can camp either on the northern side of the lake or next to the monument in the south. If you are well trained and prepared (and only then!), you can attempt to climb Moldoveanu (the highest peak of Romania) and get back in a single day. If you plan on doing this, start early in the day, bring headlamps, and be prepared to do some running alternating with rock scrambling portions. If you have done this already, leave a comment with how much time did you need to do the whole trip.
Pros
- Lake nearby
- Protected from the crowds at Bâlea lake
- Great starting point if you want to climb Vânătoarea lui Buteanu peak, the most easily accessible 2500m (8200 feet) peak in Romania
- Moldoveanu peak doable in one day (only for well-trained, well-prepared hikers in good weather conditions!)
Cons
- You have to carry your tent from the car, about 1 hour
I hope you found this piece useful or at least interesting. If you have any questions or just want to say hello, feel free to leave a comment. Have a nice hike!
Thanks for the information, i am interested in visiting Lake Balea next year and am really glad you mentioned the campsite at Capra lake, it looks amazing, thank you 🙂
Capra is relatively quiet compared to Balea (the main ridge trail still goes next to it so hikers are walking by all day), but you have to do around 250m of ascent to get there. The final part is somewhat steep, but all of it is walkable. I hope you will enjoy your stay, let me know if you have any questions!
Thank you for the information. We are planning to go in 2 weeks.
I have to question. The Capra lake it is located after the climbing that starts from the lake Bâlea right? It is possible to take a swimming over there? What about bears?
Thank you very much
Hello Alejandro! The trail to Capra lake starts near spot number 2 and is marked with a blue triangle. Swimming is probably not allowed, but you could ask at Salvamont (near spot 3) to be sure.
I’ve never seen a bear there, but unfortunately, this year is different. The number of bears has grown dramatically and there are several reports of people seeing bears near Transfagarasan. As a minimum precaution, I would not leave any food or trash in the tent for the night and it could be a good idea not to eat near the tent as well. I don’t want to scare you, but I have to warn you that this is the reality nowadays. Take care and enjoy your stay!
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Hello from Greece. Thanks for the info, we are planning to visit the area at the beginning of June do you suggest any interesting trails in the broader area (from Lake belea to Lake vidraru) that we shouldn’t miss? Also if you have any updates on the current bear situation it would be helpful.
Thank you in advance
Correction : at the beginning of July
You can check out my video about short hikes in the area here: https://youtu.be/rBE8mc9ENPs
At the beginning of July you can still expect a little snow in some areas up in the mountains.
The bear situation is not good unfortunately, there’s a high probability to meet bears along the road.
Thank you very much
hello! was wondering if the spots that are higher up in the mountain, for example number at Paltinu spring and Capra lake, have bears and foxes?? will you be getting visitors at night if you camp in these spots?
Hello, I’ve never seen or heard of animals at those particular spots, but I have further to the West at peak Suru, and the situation has worsened since my last visit. Make sure to take all the necessary precautions (eg. no food, garbage, or anything that smells in the tent) and check out the recently released RO-BEAR app for Android.